WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN OAXACA
Photo by Malle Bollini
The name Anna Polonsky probably rings a bell for those whose interests are attuned to the intersection of hospitality, food, and design. The French native has been living and working in New York for the past decade, running creative agencies that have garnered impressive client rosters ranging from Sweetgreen to Union Square Hospitality. In her latest venture, polonsky and friends (which has already been lauded by the likes of Forbes and New York Times) offers branding and design services to clients who work toward inclusivity, sustainability and craftsmanship.
Always flying from one destination to the next, if there is one thing Anna knows, it’s where to find good food. When we found out she recently returned from Oaxaca, a destination she considers her “happy place,” we just had to get the scoop. “My husband and I travel to Mexico every year for our fix of inspiration and kindness. One of my favorite cities there, and in general, is Oaxaca, which my husband introduced me to a while back. It’s heaven for all senses, with flabbergasting natural beauty, a wonderfully rich food heritage (corn! spices! chocolate! mezcal!), and an incredible tradition of craft (from textiles to ceramics and more) – a unique platform for discovery and wonder."
Explore Oaxaca through Anna’s eyes, or rather her mouth, with her list of favorite places to eat and drink below.
"Boulenc Bakery is an artisanal bakery and cafe that is a bit more "international contemporary" but still beloved by locals. Their coffee is good and their Mexican baked goods are worth the wait. In October, they made this legendary pan de muertos, a sugary brioche filled with dulce de leche. One door down is their shop Suculenta, that sells stunning ceramics and a nice selection of provisions."
"A historical spot for fresh tortillas, Itanoni is ran by a masa master. The hoja santa quesadilla is a must."
"Ran by the same group that owns Pujol and Cosme, Criollo is a really stunning outdoor restaurant that gives an interesting and affordable fine dining interpretation on the Oaxacan culinary repertoire"
"For more chef-driven, we like to sit on the patio of La Biznaga, a slow-food certified spot that might be the chef-owner's house. The menu is short, seasonal and changes daily and the food is always bright and creative, from ceviches to market driven quesadillas and a great selection of local micro-brews and mezcales."
"Los Pacos is an unpretentious restaurant that serves the best selection of mole."
"Across the street from the eponymous hotel, Mezcalería Los Amantes is a super fun, tiny room open on the street with great mezcales and always a good guitar player."
"Sabina Sabe is one of our favorite spots for cocktails in town."
"La Mezcaloteca is small tasting salon with closed doors, very hard to get a reservation at, where you can taste amazing mezcales and learn from experts about the history of the liquor, the varieties in agave, and more. This is where I truly fell in love with the complexity of Mezcal"
"For simple food, you can't miss the famous, quasi spiritual "Pasillo de Tasajo" in the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Once there, pick your meats, order all the accoutrements (guacamole, onions, chiles, lime etc), take a seat and enjoy this simple and delicious fare meats over flatbread.
If you're staying in town, Mercado de Abastos is the market I recommend, worth the 10 min cab ride. It is way bigger and more local than the more central markets. An overwhelming adventure where the smell of local breads competes with copal, and where you can buy food as much as craft. We always get our green clay tableware and baskets there."